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Scarpa Men’s Gecko

- published March 2017

86

2017

RATINGS

Support/Stability
6
Protection
7
Comfort
7
Quality & Construction
8
Performance
8
GEAR INSTITUTE RATING
86

SHOP

MSRP
LOW PRICE
$180.00
Support Gear Institute. If you make a purchase after clicking on the links above, a portion of the sale helps support this site.

THE GOOD

  • Great climbing ability
  • Minimal break in
  • Durable construction

THE BAD

  • Limited support
  • Limited breathability
  • Slow to dry

THE VERDICT

The Scarpa Gecko is a classically designed approach shoe as more of a climbing shoe with hiking ability. Traction, sensitivity and flexibility are excellent on stone but the trade-offs are limited support and protection on the trails. 

FULL REVIEW

Support/Stability
The midsole and foot bed of the Scarpa Gecko are rather flat, making this shoe better for those with stable arches. The low heel drop, straight last and relatively wide platform provides great stability even on the most angled slabs and the to-the-toe climbing shoe lacing pattern firmly plants the forefoot. 

Protection
The Scarpa Gecko’s full 1.8mm suede upper, backed by polyester mesh, provides durable protection for the top of the feet, and provided ample warmth for shoulder seasons. A rubber toe rand and rubber coated heel cup adds impact and abrasion resistance. The true slip lasted construction, while adding flexibility, also removes a layer from the midsole, making this shoe more prone to underfoot stone pressure. Normal single day sport climbing loads on moderate approaches didn’t produce any stone pressure, but multi pitch sized trad climbing loads on sharp boulders produced some underfoot pressure. 

Comfort
The Scarpa Gecko’s suede upper and slip lasted construction proved comfortable right out of the box, improving with time. The more the shoe was worn, the more the upper softened and formed to the foot. The ample lacing options aided in keeping the fit comfortable no matter the tension requirements. The straight and broad last make this shoe better for those with wider feet. The suede limits breathability for those still climbing in the summer months, but proves desirable in the shoulder seasons.

Quality and Construction 
The Scarpa Gecko speaks of “old world” quality and construction; the 1.8mm Italian suede upper and Reptilla SR outsole reflect a nod to material choices proven over the years. All single stitching is straight, evenly and tightly spaced and centered. Bonding of the midsole and outsole is visibly clean with no errant or excessive glue visible.

Performance
The Vibram Reptilla SR outsole of the Scarpa Gecko proved sticky on all types of rock and improved with wear. The generous, flat climbing zone under the toes added welcome smearing and edging ability and sensitivity while the rubber toe rand and pointy shape made effective crack jamming a reality. The inherent flexibility of the slip lasted construction and dual density EVA midsole added confidence inspiring sensitivity and conformity during committing moves. The wider base contributed to the ample traction when trails were dry, but the shallow lugs were challenged when there was any mud. 

How We Tested It

The shoes in this test were used during rock climbing guiding jobs in the Texas Hill Country as well as personal climbing days across the U.S. and in Mexico. 

For more reviews beyond this 2017 test, check out our climbing shoe tests, climbing harness tests, crag pack tests, and other related climbing gear tests

The products featured in this test have been loaned to the Gear Institute. For more on our policies regarding editorial objectivity and sample returns, see here.

About the Author

Seiji Ishii

Seiji Ishii

Seiji Ishii works as a trainer to professional supercross/motocross riders, adventure based motorcycle testing contributor at multiple outlets, and as an AMGA certified rock climbing guide/instructor for White Star Mountain Guides/Austin Rock Gym. His personal time is spent rock climbing, any form of dirt biking, cycling, and training for the next mountaineering adventure.

Shop for the Scarpa Men’s Gecko

MSRP
LOW PRICE

$180.00
Support Gear Institute. If you make a purchase after clicking on the links above, a portion of the sale helps support this site.

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MSRP
LOW PRICE
$180.00
Support Gear Institute. If you make a purchase after clicking on the links above, a portion of the sale helps support this site.

RATINGS

Support/Stability
6
Protection
7
Comfort
7
Quality & Construction
8
Performance
8
GEAR INSTITUTE RATING
86

Weight

1.81 lbs

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