Gear Institute Expert Test Menu

Boreal Satori

- published October 2016

80

2016

RATINGS

Rubber
7
Edging
8
Smearing
6
Heel/Toe Hooking
4
Comfort/Fit
5
GEAR INSTITUTE RATING
80

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MSRP
LOW PRICE
$159.00
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THE GOOD

  • Easy to slip on and off
  • Solid edging
  • Wide toe box

THE BAD

  • Extra space under heel and over toes
  • Seriously painful break-in period
  • Non-adjustable closure

THE VERDICT

The Boreal Satori is a high performance shoe that has a uniquely wide and aggressive toe box configuration. Be prepared for some pain as the shoe breaks in. Its hard rubber takes time to warm up, feeling slippery right out of the box but eventually sticking adequately. Awkward dead space under the heel allows the heel cup to pull loose on while hooking and extra room over the toes creates a pressure point on the front big toe.

FULL REVIEW

EDGING
The Satori edges well in a variety of conditions. Its hard rubber provides support for the foot when using the inside and outside edges. Utilizing the power point, while effective, causes a pressure point on the big toe, making it rather uncomfortable until well broken in. 

SMEARING
Smearing in the Satori’s is uncomfortable. Due to its lowered toe box, the toes are forced backwards awkwardly. You may be able to pull off some decent smears, but you might not enjoy it. 

HEEL/TOE HOOKING
The Satori has a different type of rubber on the toe and heel, which our testers found to be less effective overall. A small lip on the back of the heel, while aiding in its ability to catch on small edges, remains rather ineffective: the oddly shaped heel cup moves around when cranking heel hooks due to extra space under the heel. The textured rubber over the toes proved to be the least effective of the test group when toe hooking. 

RUBBER
The Satori’s Zenith rubber compound, while professed to be the “stickiest rubber on the market” by Boreal, is very stiff and requires a break in period before it begins to stick. The shoe slipped off of holds unexpectedly at first, but as the rubber wore in our testers found it to be satisfactory. 

COMFORT/FIT
The Satori’s closure system is simple and secure but lacks adjustability options.  Getting the shoe on and off is easy and wide toe box makes wearing them comfortable on face climbs. A lowered toe box, forces them down into a unique and aggressive angle, making crack climbing nearly unbearable. Prepare yourself for pain while these shoes (and your feet) break in. Extra space in the heel cup allows movement while hooking. The toe box is snug without cramping the toes or squeezing the foot to death. This shoe fit comfortably at our tester’s normal climbing shoe size.

How We Tested It

The shoes in this test were used on a massive variety of indoor climbing surfaces at an indoor climbing gym. The climbing terrain ranged from 85-degree slabs to horizontal roofs. Types of climbs varied wildly from face climbing to artificial cracks and everything in between.

For more reviews beyond this 2016 test, check out our other climbing shoe tests, climbing helmet tests, and climbing rope tests, as well as other related climbing gear reviews

The products featured in this test have been loaned to the Gear Institute. For more on our policies regarding editorial objectivity and sample returns, see here.

About the Author

Mike Summers

Mike Summers

Mike Summers is an avid hiker, cyclist, climber, and outdoor enthusiast. While exploring America’s best outdoor spaces, Mike has developed an intimate relationship with his gear systems. When he’s not exploring, you can find him sharing insights and chronicling his journeys at improbablebutpossible.com.

Shop for the Boreal Satori

MSRP
LOW PRICE

$159.00
Support Gear Institute. If you make a purchase after clicking on the links above, a portion of the sale helps support this site.

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MSRP
LOW PRICE
$159.00
Support Gear Institute. If you make a purchase after clicking on the links above, a portion of the sale helps support this site.

RATINGS

Rubber
7
Edging
8
Smearing
6
Heel/Toe Hooking
4
Comfort/Fit
5
GEAR INSTITUTE RATING
80

Weight

19.45 oz

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