Gear Institute Expert Test Menu

Camming Devices

Metolius Super Cam

68

2015

Metolius Super Cam

The Metolius Super Cam is a three-piece set that covers an impressive range of sizes, from hand crack to off-width. That range derives itself from a brilliant asymmetrical cam-lobe design.

Metolius Ultralight TCU

69

2015

Metolius Ultralight TCU

When the Metolius TCU first came on the scene, it pushed the limits of what was possible for small cams. Yet times have changed and with so many other small cams on the market, that achieve narrower head widths in four cams, the Metolius ultralight TCU feels somewhat obsolete.

Metolius Master Cam

88

2015

Metolius Master Cam

In the world of Metolius cams, the Master Cams are the clear choice for small sizes. Industry wide, they have a good reputation for value and performance.

Black Diamond C3

80

2015

Black Diamond C3

With the narrowest head of any cam on the market, the Black Diamond C3 is a great feat of engineering, resulting in a three-cam unit that fits, where nothing else does.

Black Diamond X4

91

2015

Black Diamond X4

The Black Diamond X4 is a small-cam set that achieves tremendous stability and range in a four-cam head that is actually narrower than most three-cam heads, including the Metolius TCU.

Black Diamond C4 Camalot

95

2015

Black Diamond C4 Camalot

The Black Diamond Camalot C4s remain the benchmark against which all other cams are measured. The Camalot C4s are tried and true and work well in just about every climbing situation you could imagine.

DMM Dragon Cams

87

2012

DMM Dragon Cams

Dragon cams work especially well in flares, cracks with varying widths (i.e., irregular), or in parallel cracks where single axle units would be too tight or too baggy.

Black Diamond C3

88

2012

Black Diamond C3

These three camming units (also known as TCUs) have a narrow profile, tight springs, are flexible, and come in five sizes from .3-.89 inches. They work in thin seams up to finger-sized cracks.

Totem Cams

82

2012

Totem Cams

Chris Van Leuven takes the Totem Cams climbing and finds plenty of versatility, at a price.

Trango Flex Cams

83

2012

Trango Flex Cams

Chris Van Leuven was very happy with the price of the Trango Flex Cams. But value wasn't the only thing he reviewed.